Day 20: Crossing Borders—A Day Trip to Northern Armenia’s Canyons and Soviet Relics

For Day 20, we decided to take advantage of how perfectly positioned Tbilisi is for international travel. My mom, Kay, and I booked an all-day Airbnb Experience to cross the border and explore northern Armenia with a guide.

Going from Georgia to a completely new country in just one day was an incredible experience, filled with stunning scenery, ancient history, and some heavy structural contrasts.

1. Setting Off and Crossing the Border  

Our day started bright and early as we met up with our guide in the historic Sulfur Baths district of Tbilisi. From there, we hit the road heading south.  

When we reached the border checkpoint, the transition was completely surreal. The physical contrast between Georgia and Armenia hits you almost instantly. Passing into Armenia, the surrounding infrastructure, roads, and villages look noticeably poorer and more rugged than what we’ve become used to in Tbilisi. It was a stark reminder of the different economic paths these neighboring post-Soviet nations have taken.

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2. The Mighty Debed Gorge and Akhtala Fortress

Once we crossed over, we descended into the Debed Gorge, a massive 350-foot canyon. The landscape here is absolutely breathtaking—incredibly lush, vibrant, and deep green.

However, the Debed River cutting through the canyon was actually a bit scary to look at! It was moving incredibly fast and carrying a massive, violent current.

Our first major cultural stop was Akhtala, an age-old fortress where we got to go inside to admire its iconic, beautifully preserved blue frescoes.

3. Eating Like Locals: Homemade Armenian Lunch

For lunch, we pulled into a small village for a proper, real-deal homemade meal prepared by a local Armenian family. Sitting down at a crowded table to eat authentic, fresh Armenian food was easily one of the best parts of the day. The hospitality was incredibly warm, and it gave us a true taste of rural life outside the city centers.

4. Soviet Architecture and UNESCO Monasteries

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the afternoon, we moved on to explore the industrial town of Alaverdi. The town is a time capsule of Soviet monuments and harsh, heavy architecture, complete with relics like an iconic MiG jet fighter monument resting against the cliffs.

To wrap up the tour, we wandered through the breathtaking medieval monasteries of Sanahin and Haghpat. These ancient, stone UNESCO World Heritage sites feel entirely separate from the rest of the world, with dramatic vaulted ceilings and centuries of history carved into the dark rock.

Ending the Night: Cocktails with a View

After clearing border control and arriving back in Tbilisi, my mom and I wanted a relaxing way to process such an intense day of travel. We decided to hit up a rooftop bar for a late

-night drink, choosing the Sky7 Terrace sitting right on top of the Hotel Mercure Tbilisi Old Town.  

It was absolutely lovely. The bar offers an incredible, panoramic view looking out over the illuminated cliffs, the Narikala Fortress, and the glowing streets of the Old Town. Sipping a drink with the cool evening breeze after spending the entire day riding through Armenian canyons was the ultimate way to cap off the trip.  

Student to Student Tip: The Mercure rooftop is located right by the sulfur baths where the tour drops you off, making it the perfect post-tour wind-down spot. It is highly accessible and gives you some of the best unobstructed nighttime photos of the city skyline!